Climbing

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    ABC of Rock Climbing News Feed

  • Fort William Mountain Festival Programme Announced

    Fort William has announced a Mountain Festival programme, presented by The Outdoor Capital of the UK, that will put Fort William and Lochaber at the forefront of Scotland's events programme in February. The 2010 Fort William Mountain Festival programme of new events and old favourites will take place throughout the Outdoor Capital of the UK from Thursday 11 to Monday 15 February; during the best winter walking and climbing conditions of the year. Mike Pescod, Chairman of the Highland Mountain Culture Association, organisers of the Festival, said: "Above all the 2010 Fort William Mountain…

  • Sheffield Adventure Film Festival

    More adventure, less air miles. This March the Sheffield Adventure Film Festival will feature 44 action and adventure packed award-winning films featuring adventure sports and travel from around the globe. Get yourself to The Showroom (the largest Independent Cinema outside of London, and voted Best Cultural Venue in the region) and make just one journey for a round-the-world the trip of a lifetime. From sea kayaking and free running in the UK to mountaineering in Papua New Guinea, solo big-wall climbing in California's Yosemite Valley and 107m waterfall kayaking in Africa, you can take in…

  • Demo Tent at Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival

    Stamford, CT - Located in North Conway, New Hampshire, Mount Washington Valley has plenty of ice terrain where ice climbers from across the U.S. and Canada will congregate February 4-7, 2010 for the annual Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival. Amid the fun atmosphere, LOWA invites festival participants to visit the LOWA tent and check out their world-class, German mountaineering boots including the Mountain Expert, Ice Comp IP and Silberhorn models. All models will be available for demo. Local climbing experts including Steve House, Jared Ogden, Mark Synnott, Kevin Mahoney, Janet Bergman and…

  • 3rd Edition Mount Aspiring Guidebook Release

    The new 3rd edition – Mount Aspiring Region guide for mountaineers by Allan Uren and John Cocks is now available. This has been published in November 2009 to celebrate the centenary of the first ascent of Mount Aspiring. • Member price $30 + gst • RRP price $40 + gst Other specials: • 2 x Mt Aspiring (2nd edition reprints) for the price of one • Purchase either the Mt Cook or Darran's guides and get a Mt Aspiring (2nd edition reprint) for only $10 extra Place your on line orders here: alpineclub.org.nz

  • Dave MacLeod & Jonny Stocking Lecture at Ratho

    Dave MacLeod and Jonny Stocking will have a TISO-Ratho Lecture on February 4, 2010. All profits from this lecture will go to the MCofS for the promotion of youth climbing in Scotland. Dave MacLeod - 'How Soon is Now' Having climbed the world's hardest and riskiest trad routes for several years, Dave MacLeod asks himself why the desire to keep taking risks and looking for harder rock climbs to attempt keeps getting stronger. Dave will try to show us why he loves the very delayed gratification of impossible seeming climbs so much, why getting to the top is one of the least important parts of…
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    UKClimbing.com News

  • FRI NIGHT VIDEO: Bouldering Double Bill

    UKC News (mailto:news@ukclimbing.com)
    5 Feb 2010 | 8:00 am
    To celebrate the launch of our new Bouldering Forum, we are having a Bouldering double bill tonight. The first film is from Adam Lincoln who has a UKC id number of 20! (that means he has been around right since the beginning). It covers his recent trip to Font with friends James Pearson, Keith Bradbury and Neil Hart. The second film is one from the back catalogue featuring the impressively-strong Finnish climber Nalle Hukkatavial on his visit to Rocklands in South...

  • Scottish Winter Conditions - Full Report

    UKC News (mailto:news@ukclimbing.com)
    4 Feb 2010 | 4:00 pm
    This is the fifth of our regular series of Scottish winter conditions updates from Dan Goodwin of MountainPlan.com. Dan gives a round up of what has been climbed, where good venues for the weekend might be and also some very important links to avalanche and weather information. There are also reports from Mike Peascod and Mike Lates.

  • UKClimbing.com - Record Month and New Forum

    UKC News (mailto:news@ukclimbing.com)
    4 Feb 2010 | 4:00 pm
    January 2010 has been a record month for UKClimbing.com and to celebrate, we are setting up a new Bouldering Forum.

  • UKClimbing.com Alpine Festival 2010 at Plas y Brenin

    UKC News (mailto:news@ukclimbing.com)
    3 Feb 2010 | 4:00 pm
    In April 2010 Plas y Brenin are set to host the first ever UKClimbing.com Alpine Festival. This great weekend event is a unique opportunity for UKC users to learn from some of the Country's leading Alpinists and Mountain Guides and to mix with like-minded people and celebrate Alpine achievements and aspirations.

  • Birkett Climbs Scafell Super Winter Route

    UKC News (mailto:news@ukclimbing.com)
    2 Feb 2010 | 4:00 pm
    Dave Birkett, Andy Mitchell and Mary Jenner climbed a once-in-a-lifetime winter route last weekend on Scafell's East Buttress. Birkett has an almost religious relationship with this hallowed crag and this new winter route, he told us, was one of his most intense mental and physical climbing experiences ever. Read Dave's account and see photos by Ed Luke and Al Phizacklea in this UKClimbing.com exclusive.
 
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    Rockclimbing.com Forums | Climbing Disciplines

  • Gear Advice

    8 Feb 2010 | 7:29 pm
    Hey Folks, Just looking for some opinions on what type/brandnames of gear I should buy next for my trad rack. I might be getting a little ahead

  • Taking a Beginner...

    8 Feb 2010 | 3:36 pm
    A few days ago I was talking to some friends about taking a beginner climbing ice. I mentioned that they would have to use fusion tools and it was

  • Rappel Set Up?

    7 Feb 2010 | 9:33 pm
    I'm curious to hear some thoughts about the rap set up in the attached photo. (In full disclosure, I did not rappel on this set up or actually see

  • Melting nylon for fun.

    7 Feb 2010 | 6:47 am
    This really could have gone in the lab or here at indoor gyms. Here is my absurd idea. I have retired ropes, probably 400 meters, maybe more.

  • Aid gradeing system question.

    6 Feb 2010 | 1:54 pm
    I am familiar with the "A" and "C" designations in the grading system but what does it mean when the grade has an "F" at the end? For example,
 
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    The Southeastern Climbers Coalition

  • Kasia Pietras Interview

    If you’re at all into the climbing scene in the south, you’ve probably heard of Kasia Pietras. My guess is if you haven’t - you will! This 21 year old, originally from Chicago, transplanted herself to Chattanooga to attend UTC and to be closer to some of the best climbing around. Kasia started climbing indoors at a young age and grew up competing on plastic. Over a decade later, she still enjoys the rush of competition and it motivates her to train and climb hard. She climbed her first 5.13 in 2005 and has been going strong since. Kasia currently spends a little more time bouldering…

  • Jon Glassberg Interview

    Whether it's pulling down on sick boulders problems in the High Country of NC or setting course at The Spot in Boulder, Jon Glassberg cuts an imposing figure on the climbing landscape. Jon takes a few minutes to catch up with The SCC and fill us in on what he's been up to.

  • 2010 Chandler Mountain Challenge - Bouldering Comp Weekend

    The 3rd Annual Chandler Mountain Challenge, a bouldering competition for all abilities at Horse Pens 40, AL, will be presented by Solid Rock – Climbers for Christ on Saturday, February 6th, 2010. The event will be a benefit for Climb-up So Kids Can Grow-up which is a non-profit that provides medicine for children with aids in Africa. (Learn more here) .

  • Urban Core Belay-a-thon raises funds for climbing team

    There was tons of energy and excitement as we walked into the Wall Crawlers gym this drizzly and cold Saturday. The 7th Annual Belay-a-thon put on by Urban Core climbing team - was in high gear as forty dedicated youth climbers from the Atlanta community hosted a fund raiser for their team. All proceeds went to help fund their upcoming summer camp and to help Haitian earthquake victims which sounded like a great cause to jump in and check out.

  • Adrenaline Climbathon Helps Boat Rock

    Neither snow, nor sleet, nor icy boulders could stop Adrenaline Climbing's A-Team from holding their Boat Rock Climb-a-Thon on January 9th. Ahem, we just had to move it indoors, that's all (at the Adrenaline Gym in Suwanee-north Atlanta). To help "Float the Boat" our youth climbing team, made up of climbers ages 8 to 17, climbed as many boulder problems and routes at Adrenaline Climbing as they could in 4 hours.
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    About.com Climbing

  • What's Your Favorite Climb? Post It Now on About.com

    8 Feb 2010 | 8:55 am
    What's the best climbing route you've done lately? What's your favorite route of all time? Is there a climb that is so good that you do it every year? I have a few climbs that I really like to do over and over. I've done Otto's Route on Independence Monument at Colorado National Monument nine times now, although my climbing partner Brian Shelton with Front Range Climbing Company has cranked it over 90 times! Or Topographic Oceans on The Dome in the South Platte region. It's a route I try to do every year. Why? The moves are fun. The position is exciting. And most importantly, because I like…

  • Hero Climber Saves Fallen Victim in Scottish Highlands

    3 Feb 2010 | 7:30 am
    Will Close-Ash, a Bedlingtonshire Community High School teacher and mountaineer, rescued a woman who had fallen off 3,658-foot Stob nan Lochan, a peak in the Scottish highlands at Glen Coe, this past Saturday afternoon. Close-Ash, while rescuing the fallen climber, had to block out memories of the death of his close friend and teaching colleague Alastair Aitken, who was killed on the same mountain back in December while attempting the rescue of another climber. Mr. Close-Ash, a 33-year-old teacher, told reporters, "It's just over six weeks since Al was killed and when I came across these…

  • New National Geographic Digital Maps to Colorado 14ers and Moab

    28 Jan 2010 | 8:59 am
    Over the last 95 years National Geographic Maps, founded in 1915 as the Cartographic Division, created all those great up-to-date maps that we've seen in National Geographic Magazine. Now, however, the Geographic's map division has expanded their mission to create the world's best and most useful maps for travelers, hikers, and climbers. As rock climbers and mountaineers that travel through the world to new peaks and cliffs, we need great maps to help us chart our journeys and to keep us on track. National Geographic Maps is introducing lots of new products and services to keep us from…

  • Meeting Climbers at the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market

    24 Jan 2010 | 10:34 am
    Going to the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City for me is not just doing some business but also to catch up with friends and to meet new people. I've been going to this gig at least once a year for the last 17 years so I've got to know a lot of retailers, manufacturers, as well as lots of climbers. This time I visited with Henry Barber, who back in the 1970s was one of America's best climbers as a prolific first ascensionist, free soloist, and traveling climber. Henry, who does motivational speaking and consulting, lives a short walk from the base of Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway, New…

  • OR Show News: Five Ten Celebrates 25th Birthday

    21 Jan 2010 | 2:17 pm
    It's Five Ten's 25th birthday and they're celebrating it at the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City with a bunch of giveaways at their booth. Five Ten is giving away special anniversary caps, raffling off Yosemite jeans, and showing off some of their sponsored climber athletes like Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, and Ethan Pringle. Five Ten started in 1985 when Yosemite climber Charles Cole first glued his special sticky rubber--Stealth--onto an upper like a tennis shoe, creating Five Tennies, the first climbing approach shoes. I got a pair of those that first year and loved them. Finally a…
 
 
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    Climbing Narcissist

  • Interesting Developments At Mad Rock

    Narc
    8 Feb 2010 | 5:36 am
    Check out this post at Deadpoint Magazine as they try to piece together the latest developments at climbing gear maker Mad Rock. Related posts:Issue 2 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available ClimbingNarc.com Mentioned In Latest Rock & Ice Issue 4 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available Interesting Peter Mortimer Interview 2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Contest Now Open Poker Night at Adventure Rock Climbing Video: Paul Robinson At The 2009 Hueco Rock Rodeo Issue 3 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available

  • Popular Posts & Videos For January 2010

    Narc
    5 Feb 2010 | 9:20 am
    Lately I’ve been posting extra pictures, links, and videos over on the ClimbingNarc.com Facebook page, so if you aren’t already a fan you might want to check it out.  You are more than welcome to post on the wall over there so feel free to share any climbing related links or videos you think people might be interested in. As for the website itself, January was a busy month.  I rolled out a new design to the site early in the month to which I’ve recently had to make a few adjustments to ease the server load for my host.  I may have to make additional changes that could…

  • Progression Soundtrack, Movies From BS Productions Available For Download

    Narc
    5 Feb 2010 | 4:53 am
    In addition to the movies I mentioned last month you can now download digital versions of The Players and Spray at Bouldering.com at greatly reduced prices.  If you’re looking for music, Big Up Productions just released a select soundtrack from their recent film Progression which you can download straight from their website. Related posts:Extras From Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD Now Available For Download Review: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD Interview With Josh Lowell About Progression, Big Up Productions’ Latest Release More Climbing Movies Available As…

  • The Season

    Narc
    4 Feb 2010 | 6:00 am
    From the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries comes The Season, a web based TV show that follows five athletes through the course of a single “season” in the Pacific Northwest: A snowboarder pushes his sport to work harder. A boulderer recovers from a series of nine knee surgeries. A veteran climber invents a new piece of gear. A young kayaker sets out to define the sport of sea kayaking. A family man and avid mountain biker goes to the epicenter of downhill mountain biking to compete. These are the stories that power The Season. Sponsored by Arc’teryx, New Belgium…

  • Review: Bouldering Guide To Horse Pens 40 (HP40), Moss Rock & Palisades Park

    Narc
    3 Feb 2010 | 4:35 am
    At this point it is no secret that the boulderfields of Horse Pens 40 (HP40) in Alabama hold one of the best concentrations of quality boulder problems in the country.  Featuring great rock, insane features and incredible slopers in one compact area, HP40 has grown into an international destination. The one thing that has been lacking over the years though is a quality guidebook.  Other than a guidebook passed out at the Triple Crown comp each year, the free topo provided by the now defunct Dr. Topo has been the de facto guidebook to the area.  While this free topo was more than adequate…
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    Tom Markiewicz

  • Dangers Related to Upgrading Customers

    Tom Markiewicz
    1 Feb 2010 | 7:42 am
    …from a business perspective, account limits like Basecamp has for the number of active projects can be a double-edged sword. On one hand it’s an opportunity to upgrade customers and have them pay you more money each month. On the other hand, it forces customers to revise their position, and if you’re not doing a really great job, it can prompt them to question the value of an account they may have otherwise carried on using for years. (via Moving from Basecamp to ActiveCollab — All in the head)

  • Gently Introduce the Product

    Tom Markiewicz
    31 Jan 2010 | 9:27 am
    Respect your customers, but gently introduce them to a better product: Oskar’s didn’t just bring in its own selection of hand-crafted brews, though; the tap line includes draughts from competitors, such as Left Hand and New Belgium. “We’re all about promoting great beer in general,” Gray said. “Introducing craft beer to the consumer is so important to us. When someone orders a Coors Light, we serve it with a 3-ounce sample of Mama’s Little Yella Pils.” (via 43 beers and a Cajun Creole menu | Boulder County Business Report)

  • It’s not the platform, but the creative idea

    Tom Markiewicz
    30 Jan 2010 | 9:23 am
    ‘‘Organisations will start this year to get less obsessed about what site they’re on and focus more on whether the content they’re producing or the interactivity, especially around customer service, is engaging.” (via The Post.ie)

  • Interesting Quotes on the Apple iPad

    Tom Markiewicz
    29 Jan 2010 | 8:32 am
    Those who are worried that the iPad will cut into sales of the iPod Touch or the MacBook are the same people who worried that McDonald’s (MCD) chicken nuggets would cut into hamburger sales. Successful expansion into new categories is always a good thing. Apple did it. They created a new category within the mobile Internet tsunami. (via Four Ways Apple Beat iPad Expectations — Seeking Alpha) and Apple’s not actually selling a computer. Or a flash drive or multitouch. They needed to make those things for their product, but that’s not what the product is. The product is, simply put,…

  • My Technology Prediction for 2010

    Tom Markiewicz
    4 Jan 2010 | 1:48 pm
    This is the time of year when everyone gives their predictions for the upcoming year. I usually shy away from this for the simple reason that if I could accurately predict anything I’d be much wealthier. That said, there is one trend that I believe will truly take shape in 2010 the way it has been predicted for many years now: mobile web browsing. For years (and I mean this literally), the mobile web was going to be the next big thing. I was working on a WAP mobile site almost 10 years ago. Back then, smartphones were a rarity and mobile web browsing was not even remotely easy to use.
 
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    Rock Climber Girl

  • The Season launched today!

    Sara Lingafelter
    29 Jan 2010 | 2:54 pm
    The Season, a much-anticipated web TV show produced by Fitz Cahall (aka, the soul behind Dirtbag Diaries,) and filmmaker Bryan Smith launched today on arcteryx.com.I've been waiting with baited breath for The Season to kick off since I first saw the trailer. The first episode exceeded my expectations. I watched it stop and go the first time through, since I was chatting on Twitter with other viewers... then sat back, closed the door, cranked the volume and watched it a second time through uninterrupted. And, my eyes watered.Enjoy. 22 episodes are scheduled to go live this season, one episode…

  • Mad Rock Trigger Wire Carabiner demonstration

    Sara Lingafelter
    26 Jan 2010 | 7:45 pm
    While I was down in Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retailer show, I asked folks on Twitter if they had any questions I might be able to answer during my free time on the floor. One question,from @ryanmullins on Twitter, lead me to the new Trigger Wire carabiner from Mad Rock. The video above shows the action of the biner, and it's also here on YouTube. Basically, you set the wire gate to "open," and it's held until it's triggered to close. Mad Rock is pitching this as an add on to your normal rack of quickdraws, for steep and especially difficult sections of climbing; for me, I'm far more…

  • What's coming up...

    Sara Lingafelter
    17 Jan 2010 | 10:29 pm
    This will have to be snappy, since my sleep deprivation level is reaching critical, and I'm hitting the road again tomorrow early...I had a kick ass day in the climbing gym yesterday with Candace and Tiffany... wow, I am having some serious fun climbing with you two. I'm thankful that my list of girl climbing partners has expanded by several over the last few months. I'm still taking it a little easy on my back and neck after a little injury in December, but along with close to 75 friends I've embarked on a pull-up pyramid training program which is giving me something to do even when I'm on…

  • Gear Reviews: Evolv XY and Crumpler Bags

    Sara Lingafelter
    4 Jan 2010 | 2:00 pm
    I've been so busy USING my stash of gear that I haven't kept up with my gear review write-ups! So, here are a few highlights from the items I've been putting through their paces over the last few months.A couple of changes in my product reviews... while I'm a user first and an outdoor industry worker second, in order to avoid any appearance of unfairness I'm going to cut back on the number of product reviews I do personally for a bit. I'm hoping to have some guest reviewers chime in, too. Also, the FTC has recently published final guidelines that require certain types of disclosure when…

  • Please DON'T come to my party tonight!

    Sara Lingafelter
    31 Dec 2009 | 11:25 am
    Who: You and me.What: A Happy New Years Non-PartyWhen: From now until 11:59 PM on January 1st.Where: Wherever your bunny slippers take you.Why: To raise funds for Big City Mountaineers. I've pledged to raise at least $4,000, and to do my very best to climb Mount Rainier in August, to meet that fundrising goal. How: Please view the non-invitation for all of the details... or, keep reading if you're not on Facebook. You can also cut to the chase by visiting my Summit for Someone home page and making a tax-deductable donation today.What on earth am I talking about? Read on for the whole…
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    Himalman's Weblog

  • An Urgent Request from EverestER.

    himalman
    8 Feb 2010 | 9:13 pm
    Namaste! Hello Everest Nuptse and Lhotse-bound expeditions! YES the Everest base camp medical clinic will be on the mountain this year for our 8th season.  We will continue to ask for $100 per Non-Nepali staff and climbers in base camp, which will cover all doc consultations for your team including all of your team Nepalis at no charge. As in past years, we will charge a low fee for medications, oxygen and hospitalization as used. I have been funding this clinic for the past 8 years from our nonprofit (the $100/climber doesn’t come close to covering the expenses unless all non-Nepali folks…

  • Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /3/ – Week in Review.

    himalman
    7 Feb 2010 | 10:55 pm
    It’s faster, it’s bigger, it’s interactive! You asked for it and we built it. Go check the brand new ExplorersWeb if you haven’t yet. Other major news: Contact 5, price-slashed to below US $300 and with some incredible one-click updates. Other news: Lists of expeditions are up for Himalaya, Everest, the North Pole and other Arctic. Remote Medical will be main contributor on the medical section of ExplorersWeb (BaseCampMD), now expanding from Everest to the rest of the world. ExWeb scrutinized the NASA budget proposal and Tom Holzel believes he’s got Irvine (and…

  • Alan Arnette Explains The Champion Everest Supersuit.

    himalman
    6 Feb 2010 | 9:08 pm
    Author : Kraig Becker. Last week I posted a story about a new piece of gear coming from Champion and scheduled to be tested on Everest this year by the Climb With Us team. Dubbed the “Supersuit” this new gear is reportedly light, thin, and flexible, while offering the same weight as much thicker and bulkier down jackets and suits. According to PR from Champion, the Supersuit is just 3 millimeters thick, while traditional down gear is as much as 40 millimeters in thickness. Champion’s new technological wonder was unveiled a few weeks back at the Winter Outdoor Retailer show,…

  • Interview with Walter Laserer: Upside down in the Khumbu Icefall.

    himalman
    5 Feb 2010 | 9:14 pm
    Author: Alan Arnette. You are upside down, wedged in a deep crevasse at 19,000 feet in the Khumbu icefall. Your team mate is on top of you and you think another is nearby. Everyone knew the serac would give way, they just didn’t know when. Walter Laserer found out, up close and personal. He not only lived to tell the story but went on to summit Everest on an extremely harsh day in the spring of 2009. The 49 year-old, runs one of the largest guide services in central Europe, Laserer-alpin, from his office near Salzburg, Austria. Walter has been a UIAGM guide for over 20 years. His climbing…

  • Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

    himalman
    4 Feb 2010 | 9:12 pm
    Updated: Jan 25, 2010 Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes Check previous Everest expeditions Check previous Karakoram expeditions Check Polar expeditions Did we forget you or your friends? Mail us at:team@explorersweb.com EVEREST TRAVERSES Gavin Turner double traverse American Gavin Turner will attempt a world first: Everest double traverse, from Nepal to Tibet and back, via Everest summit. Gavin has been training for the undertaking during the last two years. He climbed Cho Oyu (with O2 from C3) and returned all the way back to ABC on summit day. In Washington, he climbed…
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    ColoCalders.Com

  • Shelf Road in the Snow

    Kate
    31 Jan 2010 | 2:52 pm
    Mark and I have taken several trips to Shelf Road, in the desert of Southern Colorado, to camp and climb during the winter. It’s a beautiful canyon filled with miles of pink limestone cliffs, and usually a warm spot in the middle of a snowy Colorado winter. This year, we were up against a bit of a deadline. With an upcoming trip to Thailand, we wanted to get in climbing on limestone before we left. So, we went against our better judgement and headed down to Shelf even after the forecast had called for snow. Even when we knew it would be bitterly cold at night. Hoping that we’d get…

  • Announcing WanderLore.Net

    Kate
    28 Jan 2010 | 6:37 am
    It’s been a week of big announcements, especially after OR Winter, the iPad and the State of the Union. But I’ve got one more exciting announcement. I am now, officially, launching my newest project: WanderLore.Net I’ve spent so many years as an engineer and scientist, that I find it hard to identify with the idea of being an artist. I’m hoping to have the space at WanderLore to really explore that idea. It is a photoblog, a place for creativity and new ideas, a little room to show off my photography, and a repository of adventures and stories. It is a new kind of…

  • New ColoCalders CrossFit Blog

    Kate
    23 Jan 2010 | 3:52 pm
    Last summer, Mark was talked into trying out CrossFit classes by his boss, and he rapidly fell in love with it. What’s CrossFit, you ask? Well, it’s a daily workout, focusing on whole-body and functional movements, that tests your mental and physical limits. In other words, he goes to the gym every day at lunch and works so hard he wants to die or throw up or both. I have gotten trained on CrossFit, and attended several classes so far. The first one was so hard that I started hemorrhaging blood and ended up at the hospital! Since then, I’ve built a ton of strength, and…

  • A few days in La Jolla

    Kate
    14 Jan 2010 | 7:56 pm
    Each winter for the last few years, my group at school has had a meeting at a joint institution in our big project. We’ve had meetings in Kauai, Los Angeles, Manhattan and this year, La Jolla, California. It was a really great meeting, and my first chance to explore Scripps and the La Jolla area. It’s very nice. The kind of place it would be easy to get used to. We spent most days in meetings and presentations, but there was a little bit of time to enjoy views of the beach and a little bit of splashing in the water.

  • The San Diego Supercomputer Center

    Kate
    12 Jan 2010 | 6:45 pm
    One of the highlights of our meeting in La Jolla last week was a quick tour through the computing room at the San Diego Supercomputer Center. WARNING: The following post includes some serious geekery! Those who aren’t turned on by massive parallel computing prowess might want to stop reading now. My research group is known for their innovative approaches to global circulation modeling, and if there’s anybody in the world who uses a lot of cycles on big computers, it’s definitely us. So, it made sense for a few of us to go check out the big computers at the UC San Diego…
 
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    American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog

  • The Right Way

    AAI
    8 Feb 2010 | 6:00 am
    I officially completed the first thing on my "intern duties list" just the other day. I saw the ultra-classic mountaineering film, "Touching The Void." Originally a book by Joe Simpson, the movie details two climbers ascent, and subsequent epic descent, of Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes. How I hadn't seen this film before is beyond me, but apparently I can now call myself a climber. Besides simply being an entertaining piece of cinematography, I found myself asking questions during and after the film. What should he have done in the situation? What would I have done in the situation? What…

  • Summit Success on 19,348' Cotopaxi in Ecuador

    AAI
    7 Feb 2010 | 5:03 pm
    AAI guide Pepe Landazuri called at 8:40am Ecuador time (5:40am Pacific time) this morning from the slopes of Cotopaxi with the following report:“Good morning.  This is Pepe calling from Cotopaxi.  We had a successful climb this morning.  We had excellent conditions, we made good time, and we summited around 6:30.  I climbed with Charles and Rebecca.  Brian climbed with Ramiro and wasn’t able to make it all the way.  There were some low clouds over the Amazon Basin, and we has some very nice colors during the sunrise.It is such a beautiful day today.  It is sunny and clear, and the…

  • Feburary and March Climbing Events

    AAI
    7 Feb 2010 | 6:00 am
    -- February and March (ongoing) -- Various Locations -- North Face Movie Premier-- February 6 -- Bellingham, WA -- Western Washington University: Veni. Vidi. Ascendi Comp-- February 9 -- Bellingham, WA -- REI Ski Wild -- February 12 -- Cody, WY -- Wyoming Waterfall Ice Fest -- February 19 -- Rancho Cordova, CA -- Granite Arch Climbing Friday Flash Fest -- February 20 -- Eugene, OR -- University of Oregon Vertical Circus Climbing Competition -- February 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens Sport Climbing Series Comp -- March 5 -- Dayton, OH -- Wright University Adventure Summit -- March 6-7 --…

  • Team Poised for Ascent of Ecuador's Cotopaxi Tonight

    AAI
    6 Feb 2010 | 5:59 pm
    AAI guide Pepe Landazuri called this morning by satellite phone to give us an update on his team’s climbing.  Earlier in the week they were thwarted on Cayambe because of extremely high winds, so they did a strategic retreat to some near-by hotsprings to plan their next moves.  After a night a Tambopaxi Lodge in Cotopaxi National Park Friday, they moved today to the Jose Ribas hut on the flanks of 19,348-foot/5897-meter Cotopaxi today.His message was received today at 1:46pm Ecuador time (10:46am Pacific time):"Hello everyone.  This is Pepe calling for Charlie [Montange], Rebecca…

  • Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked

    AAI
    6 Feb 2010 | 6:00 am
    After watching people like Dean Potter "freeBASE-ing," I started to realize how ridiculous you have to be to get noticed in the climbing world these days. With that said, it seems like people are out there continuing to push the limits of their disciplines, be it in sport climbing, trad climbing, aid climbing, or whatever "head pointing" is. I guess you start to get numb when the next wonder climber shows up and creates their own niche which the media and climbing culture can praise them for. Here is one that I found that doesn't seem like it will get a ton of repeats.The same guy in the…
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    Fun Climbs Around The World

  • Earthships, snowy winters, and catch water

    sibylle
    2 Feb 2010 | 8:05 pm
    Snow covers our windows after a storm After my last post about living in an Earthship in Colorado above 9,000 feet in winter, several people wrote to ask about how the Earthship works. I’ll try to answer some of the questions in this and the following posts.   First, Michael Reynolds of [...]

  • Earthship living at 9,400 feet in winter

    sibylle
    29 Jan 2010 | 8:55 am
    South-facing windows covered in snow When it snows at my house – an Earthship that I built in 1995  as little as one inch of snow will, given windy conditions, cover my front windows with snow.   Earthships were designed by Michael Reynolds, who initially wrote three [...]

  • Backcountry skiing - Mayflower Gulch

    sibylle
    21 Jan 2010 | 10:32 am
    Lunch at Mayflower Gulch  cabins A while ago, a friend and I skied up Mayflower Gulch. Despite the busy holiday weekend, we saw few people on this moderate trail to a spectacular view of the Mayflower Gulch amphitheater. I used my almost antique  (1980) backcountry skis  - waxable Kastle light edge with a Rottefella three-pin binding and [...]

  • Ski Vail’s back bowls

    sibylle
    14 Jan 2010 | 10:12 am
    Tristan Hechtel skiing Teacup bowl, January My son Tristan and I had several days off work (teaching skiing) after Christmas vacation, which allowed us to enjoy skiing in Vail’s back bowls. In early January the mountain is generally quite uncrowded, since the many visitors who come here over Christmas vacation have left. The easiest way to reach [...]

  • Ski like a racer

    sibylle
    7 Jan 2010 | 7:02 pm
     Tristan skiing at Keystone Tristan skies more aggressively, not only in that he skis much faster, but he also keeps  his arms  higher and hands more in front, a result of many hours spent blocking gates. He’s training me to [...]
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    High Places

  • Hauling 101

    Steph Davis
    7 Feb 2010 | 5:51 am
    Hi Steph, I hope I am not bugging you with a stupid question but my buddies and I have been training for the Salathe Wall and we cannot find any good info on how to set up a haul system I was wondering if you maybe had a basic picture that you could send of someone hauling at the anchor all I can find is hand written instructions with no pictures I really like to see what’s going on if you can help that would be awesome if not thanks no worries sorry if I bugged. P.S. your solo of the Diamond was so awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Dave Thanks Dave! Fish Gear has been the best resource for all…

  • Hello From Poland

    Steph Davis
    5 Feb 2010 | 3:03 pm
    Hi Steph! Im Wojtek from Poland. I like to climb in the Polish Tatras. You are amazing girl and always smiling. I like It! Good Luck! Best regards!!! ps. I don’t belive then u answer me… you have many fans… Hi Wojtek! Now do you believe me? Thank you for writing to me! I hope you are having a great time in the Tatras. When I came to Poland, I did not get to climb (it was too cold), but I loved visiting. Best to you too! xxSteph

  • Our February 1 Winner for the Layton Kor Fundraiser!

    Steph Davis
    1 Feb 2010 | 6:12 pm
    Thank you once again, to everyone who donated in January to support Layton Kor with his medical burden and his dialysis. Thank you also, to everyone who has donated since the fundraiser began!! Don’t forget, we are starting right now with February’s gear raffle, another awesome fat stack of gear which we will raffle off on March 1, to everyone who donates this month! We’re going to go big for this month, and include a Marmot tent as well as a Mammut rope, along with all the other great gear and clothing which our sponsors have been generous enough to donate to the raffle. I…

  • Hello from Alabama!

    Steph Davis
    30 Jan 2010 | 2:58 pm
    Hey Steph! Im at Auburn University in Alabama and saw the sharp end just about 3 hours ago after a class in my friends dorm room. The majority of the time I was watching, my jaw was on the floor when you came on. That was so sick of a solo climb, honestly just…..SO awesome. i just got back into climbing shape with bouldering yesterday. Before then I hadn’t climbed since august cause of some tuff classes. But anyways, you were so gnarly. You and Lisa Rands are my favorite female climbers. Anyways, just wanted to drop an email telling you this-sorry if its a little a.d.d. ha but im…

  • Eiger Birds

    Steph Davis
    25 Jan 2010 | 6:55 pm
    Eiger Birds from steph davis on Vimeo. Remember kids, don’t try this in the United States, “land of the free.” It’s illegal to fly from the cliffs in America’s National Parks. Why? I really couldn’t tell you. But the law they use (aggressively) to persecute base jumping, a non-motorized, low-impact sport, is something that was written up to prevent aerial delivery during World War II. What I think? How sad, to be so full of fear, that you have to clip someone else’s wings.
 
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