The most sustained commenting I see on posts here are those related to climbing injuries. There’s also been increased activity on my post from February where I described my A2 pulley injury and the steps I began to recover. Many of the comments from other climbers related to their injury, how they’ve been treating it, and where to go for additional advice. Since these posts live forever via search engines, I thought it may be useful to simply have a post where anyone can comment on what doctors or other medical professionals they’ve found to be helpful in dealing with…
Climbing
- All Climbing
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Medical Professionals Treating Climbing Injuries
3 Nov 2009 | 9:25 am -
Will Gadd on Training for Climbing
9 Oct 2009 | 12:31 pmWill Gadd on general fitness and weight training versus climbing specific training: I’m going to get real blunt here: If you want to be a better climber then damn well go climbing. Especially a better rock climber. I would bet any amount of money that if a person spent, say, 20 hours a week training and climbing hard in a structured climbing program (rock gym and outdoors) and an identical person spent 20 hours a week in a weight gym (even one promising some sort of climbing-specific program) that the actual climbing effort would destroy the gym program. Absolutely destroy it, as in… -
Quick Sends – 10/09/10
9 Oct 2009 | 9:07 amReports from Hounds Ears – Five Ten blog, Rock & Ice, Climbing Narc UKClimbing has an extensive overview of Yosemite climbing. Dead Point Magazine interviews Big Up Productions. Tommy Caldwell and Jeremy Collins win the fourth annual 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas. Alexander and Thomas Huber became the first to redpoint Eternal Flame (5.13a) on the south face of Trango Tower in Pakistan (Climbing Magazine, Alpinist, TheLowDown) Patagonia Terminates Relationship with SIGG Water Bottles Statue of bare-bottom climber causes stir in western Colorado -
Climbing Gear Review Roundup – 10/8/09
8 Oct 2009 | 5:25 pmBlack Diamond Livewire Quickdraw – Water Stone Outdoors Progression – Climbing Magazine Petzl Reverso 3 belay device, Mountain Hardwear Runout climbing pants, Mammut Infinity 9.5mm rope, Black Diamond C3 cams – The Mountain World La Sportiva Speedsters – straight outta bedlam SuperTopo Guides To Zion and Tuolumne – Climbing Narc Five Ten Team rock shoes – Sicky Gnar Gnar, Climbing Narc, Paul Robinson Black Diamond Aura Harness, La Sportiva Mantis – Rock Climber Girl Sterling Ice Thong 7.7mm twin rope – Colorado Mountain School Patagonia Alpine… -
Leslie Timms on Stepping Out of the Comfort Zone
23 Sep 2009 | 8:33 amAlways good to keep in mind: In order to progress, you need to continually push your limits, both mentally and physically. I have always worked up the grades one letter at a time, sticking with the grade pyramid. Yet what is the worst that could happen if you push the bar and you get in “over your head”? You fall? You might as well just go for it. (via Life in a Hippy Van: Stepping out of the comfort zone)
- ABC of Rock Climbing News Feed
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Yoga and Rock Climbing Retreat
Tucson, Arizona -- Tucson based Adventure Consulting and Leadership Development firm announces their fall dates for the Mindfulness and Movement Retreat. This three day all-inclusive yoga, rock climbing, and meditation Retreat takes place November 13 - 15, 2009 at Cochise Stronghold, AZ in the Dragoon mountains (75 miles east of Tucson, AZ). This weekend retreat offers participants the opportunity to connect yoga, meditation, and rock climbing in a fun and supportive environment. We will utilize mindfulness meditation, yoga, and rock climbing to experience a centering and calming physical and… -
SportsVision Hosts Group Session at Climb North
For all who are visually impaired! Family members are welcome! SportsVision is hosting a 2-hour private group session with belyaers at Climb North in Wildwood. Included with your attendance is: exclusive use of the facility, climbing harnesses, climbing helmets, basic instructions, and at least 1 instructor for every 4-6 climbers. The event details are as follows: Saturday, November 14, 2009 10:00 am - Noon Climb North 2468 Wildwood Road Wildwood, PA 15091 Phone: 412.487.2145 Email: climbnorth93@yahoo.com AGES 5 & OVER FREE to Attend for all visually impaired and their families **VERY… -
Daniel Arnold's Early Days in the Range of Light
It's 1873. Modern climbing gear and Gore-Tex are a century away, but the high mountains still demand your attention. Imagine the stone in your hands and thousands of feet of open air below you, with only a wool jacket to weather a storm and no rope to catch a fall. Daniel Arnold did more than imagine - he spent four years retracing the precarious steps of his climbing forefathers, and lived to tell their riveting stories in Early Days in the Range of Light. From 1864 to 1931, the Sierra Nevada witnessed some of the most audacious climbing of all time. In the spirit of his predecessors, Arnold… -
BOSG Promotes from Within
Boulder, COLO - The Boulder Outdoor Specialty Group (BOSG) continues to elevate the level of service provided to dealers of Kelty, Kelty KIDS, Sierra Designs, Slumberjack, Ultimate Direction and Wenger by promoting Morgan Newlon to Customer Service Supervisor and adding three new Customer Service Representatives. Under Newlon's leadership, each member of the Customer Service Department will work directly with dealers in specific territories to build lasting relationships while setting the benchmark for outstanding customer service. "Elevating the level of service provided to our dealers is a… -
Access Fund's Wild & Scenic Environmental Filmfest
Boulder, Colorado - The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is set to host the Wild & Scenic Environmental Film Festival in Berkeley, California, on Thursday, November 12th, 2009. The Wild & Scenic Film Festival is a night of inspiring environmental films and a celebration of the environment, complete with a lively pre-party, live music, beer and an auction. Special guest and pro climber Timmy O'Neill will emcee the evening's events. The party and film festival will be held at the Clif Bar and Company…
- Five Ten: Blog
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Hayden Miller’s journeis through the Northwest
6 Nov 2009 | 10:35 am“Having completed my geology major at Colorado College, I decided last spring to take the fall semester off and just climb. My travels so far have taken me from the Northwest, through California, and into Utah. There, I spent three weeks in the boulder’s paradise of Joe’s Valley. Having made many trips out to Joe’s to do the established classics while attending school in Colorado, I was in Joe’s with the purpose of seeing and climbing as many new problems as possible. Max Krimmer sending the classic “Planet of the Apes” Ryan Silven working “Trent’s Mom”… -
Ethan Pringle’s “Postcards from Paradise” - A Weekend in Tuolumne (10/16-18/09)
5 Nov 2009 | 12:44 pmHello and welcome to my first installment of “Postcards from Paradise”… no I did not come up with this title. Like all my good “ideas”, I stole it from a surf flick. Either way, I’m going to use this blog to document my weekend trips for the next several months as I make it out to such world-class destinations as Yosemite Valley, Lake Tahoe, the Trinity Mountains and, err… Mickey’s Beach… as I (hopefully) start to transition slowly back into hard(er) climbing. Whoo-hoo! While I still want to climb 5.14+ and V14 again soon and can’t wait for the day to huck a big dyno,… -
Five Ten® Freeriders Slackline
5 Nov 2009 | 9:12 amWith sticky Stealth® outsoles and a flat tread bottom, Five Ten® Freeriders are ideal for slacklining. Gibbon Slacklines and Five Ten® Freeriders make an unbeatable combination. Check them out in action here -
Jim Williams: The Risk-Reward Equation
4 Nov 2009 | 4:20 pmThe Risk-Reward Equation, created for the Explorers Club Lowell Thomas Award. See the video here Jim Williams using Five Ten® Camp Fours to help in his explorations. -
Robot wears Five Ten®
4 Nov 2009 | 2:50 pmClimbers wear Five Ten®, BASE jumpers wear Five Ten®, Downhill Mountain Bikers wear Five Ten®… now this robot from Boston Dynamics is wearing the Five Ten® Coyote. Check out the video.
- CLIMBING NEWS - Google News
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Teams Challenge NASA's Space Elevator Games They have to build climbing robots - Softpedia
6 Nov 2009 | 10:58 pmguardian.co.ukTeams Challenge NASA's Space Elevator Games They have to build climbing robotsSoftpediaIf a space elevator would ever be built, its wire would stretch for about 22000 miles (35000 kilometers), and would require a very powerful climbing Elevator to the Top: Space Elevators Climbing Towards RealityWired NewsSpace elevator climbs nearly 1km highTG DailyThe team's robot stands to win $900000 from NASA for climbing a ribbon nearly Popular ScienceDVICE -New York Times -guardian.co.ukall 878 news articles » -
Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain - New York Times
6 Nov 2009 | 9:14 pmLife and Death on the World's Most Dangerous MountainNew York TimesThis experience forged the fundamental ideas about climbing, and life, that frame his book. Last year's K2 disaster is offered as Viesturs's first teachable -
Body found in rock-climbing area - TVNZ
6 Nov 2009 | 9:09 pmBody found in rock-climbing areaTVNZThe body of a 26-year-old man has been recovered from the base of a popular rock-climbing area in the Dart River Valley north of Glenorchy. One climber saved, another found deadRadio New ZealandRock climber dies near Queenstown3 News NZBody Found In Dart River ValleyVoxyall 6 news articles » -
Danny Boyle Getting His Mountain Climbing Gear on For 127 HOURS - We Are Movie Geeks
6 Nov 2009 | 3:12 pmBehindWoodsDanny Boyle Getting His Mountain Climbing Gear on For 127 HOURSWe Are Movie GeeksDirector Danny Boyle is going to have to trade that Oscar in for a pickax, and, if I had any skills in Photoshop, whatsoever, I would've replaced it myself. Danny Boyle Tackles Mountaineer Survival Story in 127 HoursPaste MagazineAron Ralston: The MovieBackpacker Magazineall 7 news articles » -
Holiday airfares close to last year but climbing - Asbury Park Press
6 Nov 2009 | 11:14 amHoliday airfares close to last year but climbingAsbury Park PressAP • November 6, 2009 If holiday travelers on the same plane compare what they paid to fly, they're likely to find quite a spread, depending on when they and more »
- UKClimbing.com News
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Charlotte Durif: F8c+, F8c+, F8b+ And More
5 Nov 2009 | 4:00 pm19-year-old French climber Charlotte Durif has hit an extra ordinary run of form. The successful competition climber and former junior world champion has in the last couple of weeks climbed the first ascent of The Wall (F8c+) at Combe la Vielle, and also grabbed the first ascent of Pull Over (F8c+) at Grotte de Galetas in the Verdon area of France. -
Snow On The Ben - Winter Cometh
4 Nov 2009 | 4:00 pmAlan Halewood was out on Ben Nevis yesterday and found "Almost a foot of soft snow lying at the summit." He climbed Tower Ridge in snowy conditions. Here are some photos of his ascent to get you in the mood for winter. -
Climbing DVD's - A Price War?
3 Nov 2009 | 4:00 pmThis year's climbing films range in price from £12.99 right up to the top bar of £19.99. Why? "I've slowly come to the view that £20 is simply too much to pay for a climbing film, even for the best ones." Jack Geldard talks to several film makers and looks at the digital revolution and its effect on climbing media. -
VIDEO: Repeat of Sleepy Rave, Font 8C, Grampians, Australia
3 Nov 2009 | 4:00 pmJames Kassay has repeated Sleepy Rave (Font 8C) in the Hollow Mountain cave, Grampians, Australia. The endurance boulder problem links three Font 8A+ problems together and is part of the very famous boulder problem The Wheel of Life (Font 8C+). -
16 Year Old Toru Nakajima Climbs F8c+
2 Nov 2009 | 4:00 pmThe Japanese gritstone sensation Toru Nakajima has climbed Meta Force (F8c+) at Horai, Japan. The youngster has just celebrated his 16th birthday. Horai is a volcanic-tuff climbing area situated four hours south of Tokyo, near Nagoya and is home to excellent sport climbing and bouldering. More information on the Horai area is available on the Thousand Cranes Blog
- Rockclimbing.com Forums | Climbing Information | Technique & Training
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Metolius Simulator Flat Slopers
3 Nov 2009 | 12:57 pmI have one of these babies and wonder how strong you have to be to do pullups on the flat slopers. I can almost hang on them or do a quick pullup but -
One-arm pull-ups
2 Nov 2009 | 12:37 pmWhat percentage of climbers can do one-arms? Which famous climbers, do you think, CAN do them, and which deffinately can not? Can anybody here -
Shoulder health - exercises and timing
2 Nov 2009 | 8:22 amPrelude: One of the reasons that I really began to pursue climbing (as opposed to other sports I was interested in at the time: beach volleyball, -
pegboard climbers
30 Oct 2009 | 5:13 pmHi, i am interested to find out if any of you guys have come across a pegboard? They are in nearly every high school gym in the united states because -
learning to climb dynamically?
29 Oct 2009 | 6:52 pmhowdy sooo awhile back I started trying to climb statically whenever possible, thinking this would be a good way to train strength and tension.
- Rockclimbing.com Forums | Climbing Disciplines
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www.garagewoody.com
6 Nov 2009 | 1:47 pmI just posted a site for folks with garage or basement woody's. If you would like to send me a pic of yours i will post it on the site for fun. If -
Belay hardware for climb wall.
6 Nov 2009 | 6:34 amHow do I set up some belay hardware for a climb wall? -
How are quickdraws labelled?
5 Nov 2009 | 4:57 pmI was looking through some quickdraws at the store on Tuesday. How can I tell if they're dynamic or static? Also, why are they sold in 6 packs. -
Ice tools 2009!
5 Nov 2009 | 2:03 pmSo I'm finally making the plunge and purchasing my very own ice tools. I've pretty well narrowed it down to the above three: Petzl Nomics, the new BD -
Pictures of climbing workers ...
5 Nov 2009 | 10:50 amHello, many pictures of climbing workers on http://www.vertigeconcept.ch, may be a professional start for some, do not hesitate to contact us, if
- The Southeastern Climbers Coalition
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Jimmy Webb Interview
From Luis Rodriquez - Jimmy Webb is undoubtedly the strongest climber in the Southeast today. He follows a long line of brutally strong, yet humble southern climbers who speak softly yet carry a whopping big club of power. Unlike most of the southern powerhouses that preceded him, Jimmy Webb is going beyond the local boulderfields and crags to compete with the United State's strongest climbers on the national level competitions. And competing he is: with a 7th place finish at the 2009 Gravity Brawl in NJ and a 4th place finish at the Mammut Bouldering Championships in SLC, he's competing… -
Adrenaline Climbing’s 5th Anniversary Comp Supports S.C.C.
From Trey Johanson-Smith: Climbers from all over Atlanta, and as far away as Chattanooga enjoyed a relaxed, friendly comp sweetened with super-fun problems and routes by Brad, Preston, Lenny, Taylor, and the rest of the Adrenaline Climbing setters. Huge thanks to the 87 competitors who came to play! -
Steele Ribbon Cutting Pleases
Despite a windy and rainy afternoon, over 25 climbers rallied in the parking lot at the trailer to cut the ribbon on their newly opened crag at Steele, Alabama. As Johnny and Ian Connell and Jeremy Boydston flipped burgers and turned hot dogs, several climbers cracked open a cold beverage and watched the sun begin to peek in through the dark clouds. -
Hound Ears Write-up—‘Sweet Sixteen’ and ‘Lucky Number Seven’ Kick-off’
Beautiful weather, seamless volunteer support, a psyched capacity crowd of climbers, a brand new collection of boulders, and amazing support from all of Triple Crown’s sponsors combined to launch one of the best Hound Ears competitions in sixteen years!! Click Here for Triple Crown 2009: Hound Ears Wrap-Up from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo. -
4th Annual Reel Rock Nashville Jammin'
From Lance Brock - On Thursday, October 1st, the Nashville climbing community most definitely came out for the 4th Annual Reel Rock Film tour held at the Historic Belcourt Theatre. With over 230 people in attendance, a larger theatre to host the crowd, and 4 street teams selling raffle tickets the half hour before the start of the show, the night was a great success thanks to the help of 6 volunteers, Climb Nashville, Cumberland Transit, Lightning 100, the friendly folks at the Reel Rock office, and the awesome climbing community here in Music City, USA.
- About.com Climbing
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Matt Wilder Sends 5.14 Trad Route on Devil's Thumb
5 Nov 2009 | 4:23 amThe Devil's Thumb, sometimes called Toponas, its Indian name, poses high above Boulder, Colorado, on the southeast ridge of Bear Peak. The crooked digit, usually climbed by a short, amenable route (5.7) up its east side, offers an imposing north wall of overhanging sandstone sliced by diagonalling roofs and intermittent cracks that was climbed with aid by the late Kyle Copeland and Scott Sounders in 1981. In one of this year's best efforts on American stone, Matt Wilder cranked the steep face on October 17. Naming the route Cheating Reality, Matt tentatively assesses the route 5.14a R but… -
What's the Best American Climbing Area? Vote Now!
2 Nov 2009 | 3:19 amWhat's the best American climbing area? I posted a poll last week on the About.com Climbing Forum. Go there and cast your ballot for your favorite. It's hard to decide which is the best climbing area in the United States. Lots of excellent climbing areas scatter around this vast country. Back in the 1970s it wasn't hard to decide the best arenas for rock climbing. The Big Three--Yosemite Valley, Eldorado Canyon, and the Shawangunks--were simply the best, the places where cutting edge routes were done by the world's elite climbers. Now it's more difficult to decide. There are just so many… -
UIAA Releases New Braking Device Standards for Climbing Gear
29 Oct 2009 | 8:42 amThe UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) Safety Commission recently released its first safety standards for braking devices used for belaying and rappelling after working with device manufacturers over the last ten years. The standards include parameters for device performance as well as stringent testing guidelines so that devices can receive coveted UIAA approval. Belay and rappel devices are crucial pieces of safety gear that climbers use every day, having these new safety standards will ensure that you can buy and use the approved devices with confidence. The standard… -
Learn How to Rig a Carabiner Brake for Rappelling
24 Oct 2009 | 1:46 pmYou're out climbing in Yosemite Valley and five pitches up your latest route you take your belay and rappel device off your harness to pull the rope out after belaying your buddy up the last pitch. Before you know it, it's slipped from your hand and you see the device bouncing down the wall below...ping, ping, ping and it's off into the forest at the base. Do you know how to rappel off a climb if you accidently drop, lose, or forget your rappel device? There are a few ways to get down, including the Dulfursitz or body rappel, the Münter hitch, and the carabiner brake. Of the three, the… -
October's New Hard Routes in Wales, Germany, and France
20 Oct 2009 | 4:26 amOctober's been a good month so far for European climbers. This time of the year in Europe is generally dry and mild with cooler temperatures which are perfect for hard cranking. In North Wales, 52-year-old Stevie Haston returned to Craig Dorys at the Lleyn Peninsula and climbed two more major new lines. Earlier this year, Haston established two difficult and scary routes--Bam, Bam and Harmony--up the steep and loose cliff. The new routes, put up with Leigh McGinley, are just as hard and just as scary with scant protection and lots of rotten rock. The first was 2-pitch Dream Canyon Handshake…
- Mountain Climbing News
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Why Austrian Wildlife Makes it Perfect for a Hunting Trip
6 Nov 2009 | 2:04 amAustrian wildlife is fascinatingly hardy and diverse. While you probably have some idea of Austria's culture, its famous culinary goods and ideal climate for skiing and mountain-climbing, many people overlook the relatively unobtrusive detail of Austrian wildlife. -
Mountain deaths down this summer
4 Nov 2009 | 1:58 amVienna. Fewer people were killed in Austrian mountains this year, new figures show. -
Mark Wellman to be keynote speaker at A Toast to Tahoe Skiing
3 Nov 2009 | 6:08 pmMark Wellman, a nationally acclaimed author, filmmaker and motivational speaker will be the Squaw Valley Institute's "Toast to Tahoe Skiing" keynote speaker. -
Finding authenticity in early ascents
1 Nov 2009 | 7:04 amDaniel Arnold grew up in Portland and cut his rock-climbing teeth at Broughton Bluff and Smith Rock, but once he moved to California and saw the Sierra Nevada, it was all over. -
Western Mass Climber's Coalition works to protect rock climbing areas
29 Oct 2009 | 10:10 pmMountain climbing is their passion, but land conservation and climbing preservation and advocacy are their missions.
- NYT > Mountain Climbing
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Deadly Summit
7 Nov 2009 | 9:00 pmAn American climber recounts some of the most dramatic attempts on the peak of K2. -
‘Julie & Julia’ for the Rugged: Tracing a Fatal Everest Trek
30 Oct 2009 | 9:00 pm“The Wildest Dream,” a documentary scheduled for release next spring, tracks a mountaineer’s attempt to mirror an ill-fated 1924 climbing expedition on Mount Everest. -
Charles S. Houston, Who Led a Failed Himalayan Climb, Dies at 96
30 Sep 2009 | 9:00 pmDr. Houston was a mountain climber and an expert on high-altitude medicine whose effort to reach the summit of K-2 ended in the death of one of his team. -
Riccardo Cassin, 100, Dies; A Legendary Mountaineer
15 Aug 2009 | 9:00 pmMr. Cassin scaled hundreds of the world’s most daunting peaks with daring, tenacity and technical brilliance. -
Risking the Taliban to Confront the Deadliest of Peaks, K2
27 Jun 2009 | 9:00 pmA dispatch from the base camp of K2, where even death-defying mountain climbers feel daunted by the turmoil in Pakistan below.
- Mountain Project - All Locations showing Routes, Areas, Photos, Events
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Route: Jenny Craig (V7-8)
6 Nov 2009 | 11:45 pmSubmitted By: Chip PhillipsLocation: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : Bierstadt AreaJenny Craig begins on the left side of the 80 degree slab and traverses up and right towards an arete, at which point it steers upwards to the top. The hands are deceivingly poor during the traverse and the feet are downright miserable. However, I guess that's what you should expect from hard slab. -
Route: Star Crossed Lovers (V5+)
6 Nov 2009 | 11:32 pmSubmitted By: JJNSLocation: CO : Eagle/Vail : The Aircraft CarrierStart seated and just left of the northern prow of the Aircraft carrier. A few juggy pulls will get you to the crux where good core tension should keep you on from a crimp to a sloper then a pinch and finally a jug. Bonus points if you cut your feet while grabbing the jug. A couple more easy moves and the mantel and this ones in the bag. -
Area: The Aircraft Carrier
6 Nov 2009 | 11:30 pmSubmitted By: JJNSLocation: CO : Eagle/VailThe Aircraft Carrier is a secluded bouldering spot with a little something for everyone. The first boulder that was developed was the aircraft carrier. This boulder has a about ten problems on it. The area around the boulder has been developed as well yielding an excellent V9 called the Cool Arete. -
Photo: Ego Boost
6 Nov 2009 | 9:28 pmSubmitted By: Bill LawryLocation: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Domingo Baca Canyon, Lower : Ego BoostPicture taken near Elena Gallegos Picnic Area. -
Route: Elvis Memorial Corner (5.12c)
6 Nov 2009 | 9:24 pmSubmitted By: charley grahamLocation: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313This one has tricky bolt-protected face climbing and a splitter thin-hands corner, and it even stays dry in the rain. There is a second pitch as of 2008, which wasn't freed on the first ascent but is likely 5.11. There is a hard wide section with a swift's nest in it so this might be a good fall/winter route.
- Rock and Ice Online News
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Dean Potter on NBC this Sunday
4 Nov 2009 | 11:00 pmThe World of Adventure Sports Series on NBC will host Dean Potter Sunday, November 8th. -
Unclimbed No More: North Face of Wedge Peak
4 Nov 2009 | 11:00 pmNick Bullock, Andy Houseman summit Wedge Peak, alpine style, doing a 4,921-foot route. -
Apa, Dawa Sherpa Headline Mountain Day in Copenhagen
3 Nov 2009 | 11:00 pmClimb for Life will host Apa and Dawa Sherpa in Copenhagen to support effects of climate change in Nepal. -
VIDEO: Triple Crown
2 Nov 2009 | 11:00 pmTwo classic boulder problems at Stone Fort -
Canadian Women Free Moonlight Buttress
2 Nov 2009 | 11:00 pmJasmin Caton and Jen Olson become second all women team to free climb the Moonlight Buttress
- Climbing Narcissist
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Change Of Plans
6 Nov 2009 | 3:19 amIt seems like an eternity has passed, but about a month ago I set aside a long weekend for a bouldering trip to the Southeast. The trip was to be a training mission for my trip to Hueco and my mind was full of potential projects to tick off. Unfortunately things don’t always work as planned. For starters, the weekend before the trip I injured my shoulder at the gym, something that would plague me for the next month. Then the forecast for the Southeast was terrible so we changed our destination to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. A friend on the Facebook sent along beta from the upcoming… -
A Sneak Peak At Between The Trees
5 Nov 2009 | 6:09 amKeith Bradbury from UncleSomebody sent me a copy of his soon to be released movie Between The Trees the other day and asked me to give it an “honest” review. I was more than happy to do so since I was already eagerly looking froward to seeing how he told the story of Ty Landman’s impressive trip to the bouldering mecca of Fontainebleau. Unfortunately, I ran out of time in the run up to my Hueco trip, and I was only able to half watch the movie as I did 50 other things on my computer. Since I couldn’t give the movie my full attention I can’t give a full… -
Climbing Video: James Kassay Repeating Sleepy Rave (V15)
4 Nov 2009 | 8:05 amJames Kassay recently did the 3rd ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Sleepy Rave (V15) in Australia’s amazing Hollow Mountain Cave. The problem is a link up (best I can tell) of the problems Sleepy Hollow (V12), Cave Man (V9) and Dead Can’t Dance (V12). For reference climbing the same line from a bit lower in the cave, starting on the V9 X-treme Cool, yields the famous problem Wheel Of Life (V16). Below is the video of Kassay’s ascent, where you get a really good sense for the scope of the HMC and just how much climbing is involved in doing a problem like Sleepy Rave. -
New Daniel Woods Blogsite
4 Nov 2009 | 4:34 amVia B3Bouldering comes news that Daniel Woods has started a new website with a blog, pictures, video, etc. Check it out here. Related posts:Problogs: Angie Payne & Daniel WoodsDaniel Woods Arkansas Update In His Own WordsDaniel Woods Arkansas Bouldering UpdateFirst 5.14d For Daniel WoodsDaniel Woods Heating Up In Gorges du LoupOnly The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Daniel Woods…New Andy Mann Photo BlogsiteJohnson, Woods Win 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships -
Not A Bad Ticklist…For A Lifetime
2 Nov 2009 | 6:07 amMrs. Narc and I spent the past 4 days enjoying an amazing Fall weekend in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. I’ve never been to the Red this late in the season and the Fall colors were simply stunning. The weather was surprisingly warm Thursday and Friday which made for pleasant conditions at the crag, even if it was a touch on the hot side. On the climbing front, I took it easy for the most part because I’d been diligently training sitting on the couch the past 2 weeks resting my shoulder in the hopes that I would be (relatively) healthy for my trip to Hueco this week. I…
- Rock Climber Girl
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Guest Blogger Rebecca: Gore-Tex Summit - How The Stuff Works
4 Nov 2009 | 9:15 pmFrom RCG HQ: Here's Day 2 of Rebecca's adventures at Gore-Tex Bloggers summit!One of the most interesting parts of the Gore-Tex Blogger Summit was learning about the core science behind what makes a garment waterproof and breathable. This actually is important information for the outdoor consumer. It’s not unique to Gore-Tex and the science applies to all kinds of outerwear, manufacturers, and sports.What exactly makes a jacket waterproof and breathable? What does breathable mean? Why do I get wet inside my Gore-Tex or eVent or other waterproof/breathable material jacket? In order to… -
Guest Blogger Rebecca: Gore-Tex Summit
2 Nov 2009 | 4:48 pmHi Everyone, RCG HQ here. Rebecca from calipidder.com has posted her take on the recent gathering of outdoor bloggers at Gore-Tex. Enjoy!The Gore-Tex Blogger Summit was a short whirlwind of tours, education, entertainment, and fun with fourteen other outdoor bloggers and many Gore associates. I wasn’t sure what to expect with this event but it was clear from the beginning that it would be an interesting 48 hours with a great group of people. In the spirit of full disclosure, I should mention that Gore provided the travel and expenses for this trip.Everyone arrived throughout the day on… -
Sara Post: Kala Patthar
27 Oct 2009 | 8:46 amFrom RCG HQ: Check new pictures from Sara on her Flickr site. Here's her latest post - Enjoy!Today has been a big day all the way around... the rest of the climbers overnighted at Advanced Base Camp last night, then pressed up to Camp 1 today. More information will come, on the official sites at www.climbwithus.com and Jamie's Twitter account. My day revolved around my first big acclimatization hike: to the summit of Kala Patthar at approximately 18,360 feet. We could have gone back toward Gorakshep and up the gentle main trail from there... but no... while Kami usually takes me "easy way"… -
Sara Post: Back at Pumori Base Camp
26 Oct 2009 | 11:08 amI can’t even remember the last time I wrote directly, although some updates have gone up on other websites… but today I have the luxury of a few minutes at a computer, so here’s an update on the last few days.The trek through the Nepali countryside has been blissful… comfortable accommodations, great friends, lots of laughter, and many steps forward through some of the most incredible scenery I’ve ever seen. I’m a fair to middling photographer, and even I can’t seem to take a bad photograph here… they just keep racking up on my camera, with only the blurry ones deleted. I’ve… -
Sara Posts Latest On Trek Toward Pumori
24 Oct 2009 | 9:53 pmQuick check in here... Sara posts at Expedition Hanesbrands site... Via @ClimbWithUs on Twitter: New update from @theclimbergirl Sara wrapping up days 5-11 on Mount Pumori. A great read! http://bit.ly/9PMiY
- Himalman's Weblog
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Langtang Gosainkunda Trekking – Special Nepal Travel and Trekking Packages for 2010.
7 Nov 2009 | 1:46 amI Recommend…. http://www.nepaltourstravel.com/ Nepal Travel Tour Packages with Information. Special Nepal Travel and Trekking Packages for 2010. We provides you Special Nepal Travel and Trekking Packages for 2010 including Nepal Travel ,Trekking Tour Information With Tips and Package . Nepal is a unique destination for travel, trekking and tours because of its unbeatable combination of natural beauty and cultural riches. Trek and Tour around Nepal, you will directly experience our culture and way of life of different ethnic people, religion and festivals. Trekking and Tour in… -
III Spotkania Podróżników i Eksplorerów w Krakowie (13-15 listopada 2009).
5 Nov 2009 | 10:50 pmOd 13 do 15 listopada odbędą się w Krakowie III Spotkania Podróżników i Eksplorerów, kilkanaście godzin pokazów zdjęć, filmów i prezentacji. Prelegenci to zarówno postaci dobrze znane i cenione w podróżniczym środowisku, jak i – a może przede wszystkim – młodzi, ambitni globtroterzy także mający już w swoim dorobku znakomite dokonania, nierzadko światowej rangi. Nie zabraknie m.in. laureatów Kolosów. Wśród uczestników także wielu znakomitych wspinaczy, którzy opowiedzą o swoich górskich zmaganiach. Nie będą to jednak zwykłe relacje z zakończonych… -
Szczelina – historia Piotra Morawskiego.
4 Nov 2009 | 8:06 pmTekst poniżej przedstawiony, “Szczelina – historia Piotra Morawskiego” to obszerne fragmenty artykułu “Śmierć człowieka gór”, który opublikowano na portalu www.sports.pl. Autor : Marek Wawrzynowski. Szczelina – historia Piotra Morawskiego Czy ja wyglądam na wdowę? – pyta Olga Morawska. Na spotkanie przyszła z 2-letnim synem Gustawem. Starszy o 2 lata Ignacy pojechał gdzieś z wujkiem. Olga zapewnia, że tak jest lepiej, bo gdyby byli obaj, „roznieśliby knajpę na strzępy”. A tak skończyło się na jednej zbitej solniczce i jednej… -
Polish Himalayas – Women in the Mountains. /Version english and polish/
3 Nov 2009 | 11:19 pm“The good Lord helped us both climb to great heights on the same day” – this is the most famous quotation related to Polish Himalayan climbing and it moves us now as much as ever, or perhaps even more, since both of the interlocutors are no longer with us. The words were spoken by the pope John Paul II to Wanda Rutkiewicz on the 10th of June 1979, during his first pilgrimage to Poland. He was referring to the amazing day of the 16th of October 1978, which was of utmost importance for both of them. When the white smoke over St. Peter’s Square let the Catholic world know it had a… -
Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /38/ – Week in Review.
3 Nov 2009 | 1:31 amLast week was all about expedition power and Himalaya stats, rounded off by a Halloween Everest special! HumanEdgeTech special: expedition power Attempts to generate power have been imaginative among explorers and the military. Last week ExWeb ran a 2-part series featuring some of them, plus the latest and the most efficient. Read all about walk-and-charge, the crank, Solio, generators and more! StatCrunch: 8000er mountaineers with 6 summits or more Following his Himalaya and Pakistan wraps, ExWeb’s regular stats contributor Rodrigo Granzotto Peron has updated the list of 14, 8000er…
- The CragBaby
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Little Cottonwood Canyon - Fall 2009
29 Oct 2009 | 1:19 pmIt has been prime Little Cottonwood Canyon bouldering season lately… My first attempt on ‘Helen Keller’. I didn’t get much farther than this … and yes, those are the starting holds. Picture by Trevor. … but Rafiti did. He picked up the send this past weekend!! Woot, woot! Picture by Trevor. Nathan at the Goldy boulder. Emil on ‘St. Nick’. Me on ‘Sweet Baby Jesus’. I have only given this line one attempt but would *really* like to try it again. Only problem is it is a high-ball with a crappy landing, so basically you want to… -
Living the Nomadic Life: Which Crags to Visit as a Solo Traveler
8 Oct 2009 | 9:40 amContinuing on with my Living the Nomadic Life series, is Which Crags to Visit as a Solo Traveler. Just Leave The Best Car for the Road (and its addendum) What to Pack (Domestic Travel and International Travel) Where to Visit - Crags to Visit as a Solo Traveler (Perhaps I will later make a post of all climbing destinations) Tips and Tidbits I don’t plan very much when I travel. I usually pack up the bag and car and simply take off, figuring my path along the way. I usually will have a couple destinations in mind, but fill in the majority of the trip along the way (this goes for… -
Summer 2009 Pictures
7 Oct 2009 | 9:45 amI stopped by my friend Erich’s blog the other day. He lives in Boone and is always taunting us blog readers with his pics of fabulous gneiss lines. Sigh. So, I thought I would throw up some pics of my own from this past summers adventures. Ben going for the redpoint attempt on ‘Social Values’ in Causey. Such a great line! The view from Dog Lake trail in Millcreek Canyon (in Salt Lake). Pang insisting that we do all crack boulder problems in Joes. I insisted on all crimp lines. Josh in Indian Creek. Yes, we climbed there in August. Ben on a variation of ‘Variety… -
Merci Beaucoup
5 Oct 2009 | 6:56 pmToday I was the recipient of an act of kindness by a complete stranger. My computer was having MAJOR issues (wifi card not working, logic board needing to be replaced, and for some odd reason it kept waking itself up from sleep mode). Long story short a stranger fixed all my problems, free of charge. Not sure why this person decided to be so generous, she simply said, “since you have been so friendly I can waive all these charges for you” and that was that. I thought I had misheard her, but today I picked up my machine with all its new hardware with a total amount due of zero. … -
How To: Tie a Bowline Knot
1 Oct 2009 | 8:48 amA good handful of my friends like to use the bowline knot rather than the figure eight when sport climbing. The reason of preference is usually because the bowline knot is easier than the figure eight to untie after loaded with pressure (a fall) making it ideal when projecting a line. I had yet to learn this knot well enough to visually check it, having to double check the knot by inquiring of the climber if it looked correct. As a belayer I feel like I should understand everything that is going on with a climb, including the knot, ensuring that I can personally double check…
- ColoCalders.Com
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Kate in Colorado Springs, Again
21 Oct 2009 | 10:54 amThis fall, I spent another 4 weeks teaching a great class on Climate Change at Colorado College in Colorado Springs. As they did before, the college rented me an apartment for visiting faculty, and I stayed there during the week while I was teaching. This year, however, the apartment was not part of an old tenement, but converted rooms from one of the largest Victorian-era mansions I have ever been in. This apartment was much larger than the last one, and had it’s own unique features. The kitchen was clearly added on, and in a narrow galley-style that was too small to contain all of the… -
Climbing on Golden Cliffs
17 Oct 2009 | 10:57 pmDylan and Ann were in town for the weekend, so we met up at the warm basalt crags that sit above Golden, Colorado. It was a lovely day, warm enough to climb in tank tops, crowded enough to give the crag a party feel. Sean came up from Denver and met us around lunchtime as well. I’m not going to chronicle the day hour by hour or anything. One important lesson from our day though: bring a trad rack to this area, even if you expect to only be sport climbing. There are a surprising number of really fun cracks to be climbed on North Table Mountain. If you never plug any gear out there,… -
Colorado Autumn
14 Oct 2009 | 7:22 amUsually, the minute leaves on aspens start to pale and crinkle, I am all over fall colors in the Rockies with my trusty little camera. It’s one of my favorite times of year, as the seasons shift from long, high-energy days to quiet, contemplative nights. This year, I spent a(nother) month in Colorado Springs teaching an undergraduate class on Climate Change. It is an incredible learning experience for me, and the three-and-a-half week block system means the course is hugely demanding. I love the chance to throw myself at a task completely: intellectually, physically, and emotionally. -
Where the Wild Things Are
13 Sep 2009 | 1:26 pmIn Vedauwoo!!! The summer was getting late, and Doug and Liz wanted one last weekend romp through the rocks and woods of Vedauwoo. Doug drove up early on Friday morning to grab the best campsite in the area: a huge area of cleared ground below tall lodgepole pines just south of the Beehive Buttress. Mark, Liz and I arrived late on Friday night, to find Sean and Doug enjoying a roaring fire and the quiet of a Vedauwoo night. Liz had filled our heads with stories of coyotes, bears, and deadly moose in Vedauwoo. Our night was spent looking anxiously out into the darkness around us. Saturday… -
Eating the fruits (and veggies) of our labors
8 Sep 2009 | 7:18 pmIt’s been a summer of bounty from the gardens and our Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program. Every day something else is ripening on the vines and every week we get a new big box of fruit and veggies. Each summer is a learning experience for us, both in learning how and what we can grow in our own gardens as well as how and what we can eat from the CSA! One of the hardest parts of our summer food bounty is researching and finding interesting ways to eat all of these veggies. Here are some of the big hits of the 2009 Summer season! Mango, Peach and Pineapple Salsa – Uses…
- American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog
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International Mountain Day - Index Fundraiser - 12/11/09
6 Nov 2009 | 6:00 amMost people have no idea what International Mountain Day is. We didn't know either. That is, until we got an email from the UIAA, reminding us about this important day.How could we not know about this?How could we not know that there is an entire holiday dedicated to the world's mountains, and by extension, to the world's mountaineers?International Mountain Day is an opportunity to create awareness about the importance of mountains to life, to highlight the opportunities and constraints in mountain development and to build partnerships that will bring positive change to the world's mountains… -
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- November 5, 2009
5 Nov 2009 | 6:00 amNorthwest:--Julian Lopez, 43, of Santa Rosa, Calif., was airlifted off of Mount Shasta early Sunday morning after falling approximately 1,500 feet down the mountain, a Siskiyou County Sheriff’s Office news release stated. To read more, click here.--The Snohomish County sheriff's office said Wednesday a Seattle man remains missing near Darrington. Searchers have been looking for 59-year-old Gregory Keller since Tuesday when his girlfriend reported he had failed to return Monday from a hiking trip that began Oct. 27. To read more, click here and here.Sierra:--A search dog team found the body… -
Conditions Report -- November 4, 2009
4 Nov 2009 | 6:00 amRED ROCK CANYON:--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock CanyonWebcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to… -
Route Profile - Johnny Vegas
3 Nov 2009 | 6:00 amJohnny Vegas is an extremely popular, extremely cool little route that can be found on the lower tier of the Solar Slab Wall in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This phenomenal 5.6 or 5.7 route (depending on who you talk to) climbs up through three enjoyable pitches, all of which are in a spectacular position.A father and daughter team low on Johnny Vegas.Photo by Jason MartinThis is a slightly older route. It was put up in 1994, but didn't make it into a guidebook until 2000. The result is that this super classic line was overlooked for a six full years.In 1999, I was climbing… -
Recreation Fees Waived on Veterans Day, Nov. 11
2 Nov 2009 | 3:51 pmThe American Alpine Institute just received the following note from the U.S. Forest Service: PORTLAND, OR – The publicmay visit federal recreation sites for free on Veterans Day, Wednesday, Nov. 11.The fee-free day honors U.S. veterans, members of the U.S. armed forces and their families.The administrative fee waiver of recreation-use fees applies annually on Veterans Day at publicrecreation lands managed by the U.S. Forest Service, as well as by the National Park Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management and Bureau of Reclamation. "Honoring veterans by waiving…
- Fun Climbs Around The World
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Bridger Jack after rain
1 Nov 2009 | 8:26 amView from Bridger Jack camping toward cliffs I drove through thunder, lightning, and pounding rain to reach Indian Creek. Luckily, the rain stopped shortly before Moab, and all I had to contend with when arriving at Indian Creek was to put up my tent at night int he mud. Now mud is easy to avoid in the [...] -
Indian Creek - reservoir in autumn
30 Oct 2009 | 2:50 pmReservoir in late October Driving to Moab this year, I noticed the brilliant colors of the fall foliage on the cottonwoods along the River road. I don’t remember ever before seeing quite such gorgeous colors at Indian Creek. We climbed at the Six Star Wall, which I’d never before been to, so it was a successful trip [...] -
Entlebucher puppy at 6 - 7 weeks
16 Oct 2009 | 9:01 amResting in the fall foliage 7 weeks and he can pick up the ball! Sharing with mom -
Ambition and ethics
11 Oct 2009 | 4:14 pmFor several years, I’ve visited Professor Paul Strom’s class, The Ethics of Ambition, to talk with the class about ethics and ambition in the climbing community. In the past, I’ve mentioned various ethical dilemmas climbers encounter and we’ve discussed what would be the better, [...] -
Entlebucher puppy
28 Sep 2009 | 8:48 pmAk-Su , now five weeks old, started doing more than merely eating and sleeping. The first few weeks, puppies sleep 90% of the time and eat the remaining 10%. Once their eyes open, starting at about 3 weeks, they get more active daily. Here are some typical activities: Mmm — is that funny stuff that mama’s eating [...]
- High Places
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How To Make Lemonade 101
3 Nov 2009 | 3:05 pmSo the main thing people wrote on my facebook page this week was “what did you lose in those bags? Not the five ten canopy!!” Sigh. Yes, the Five Ten canopy. The beautiful, red, only-one-in-the-entire-world Five Ten canopy was in those bags. The one that Fletchmama used to lie on while I was packing it. Hold on, I need to go blow my nose. Okay. So anyway. Yes, the Five Ten canopy was in there. And the bags are still not found whatsoever, over two weeks later. However! Things are looking up As you know, Mario and I gave our bags to United on our way home from Zurich on October 20,… -
Our First Gear Winner From Laytonkorclimbing.com!
1 Nov 2009 | 8:51 pmThank you so much to everyone who has helped with this fundraiser so far, to support Layton Kor with his medical expenses. We are rolling now with the monthly gear giveaways, which will happen on the first of every month, as long as we have all this gear to give away! Today I printed out all the names of everyone who has donated to help Layton, with each name printed out once for each $25 donation (so some folks had several shots at it, because they donated more). Some of you requested to be in the guide day drawing (and you still are), others just wanted to be in the gear drawing, but for… -
A Swiss News Story About My Orphaned BASE Gear
1 Nov 2009 | 12:48 pmJust found this on the internet today…. An article in a Swiss paper all about base jumping in Switzerland, with brand names and models of some of the gear United Airlines lost for me! With photos too (and funny captions)! Ironic, no? Meanwhile, here in the States, we have this. As I updated in my comment to the last post, United on Friday sent me a written (via email) assurance that they now agree to replace the lost gear as I have reported it in my claim–after a 30 day period which will precede their next phase of handling the claim. Um, ok. Today would be nice. -
United Loses BASE Gear
29 Oct 2009 | 4:53 pm(art courtesty of @iamboat) Well, it was a great trip to Lauterbrunnen. So great I didn’t even have time to blog about it for the three weeks I was there, because I was so busy flying my wingsuit off giant cliffs and shooting lots of awesome/hilarious (at least to me) video footage. We finally got to jump the Eiger, right before the first snow, getting a bonus helicopter ride to the mushroom from a friend who was making a 3D Imax wingsuit movie (not about us!) and then packing up and hiking right back up to get an amazing two-for-one Eiger day. It’s funny (well, there are a lot of… -
Laytonkorclimbing.com First Gear Giveaway
26 Oct 2009 | 11:54 amThank you so much, to everyone who has donated so far to help Layton Kor with his medical burden! You have all helped so much, and on November 1, we will give away the first thank-you gear bundle. Everyone who has donated and requested to be in the guide day giveaway hat will be included in the drawing for the November 1 gear gift. The lucky winner will get all the items sent directly to them, from the great companies who have donated the gear. The good news is that your donations have helped considerably to chip away at Layton’s medical costs in the first month of the fundraiser, and…
- alanarnette.com
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Dear Santa - my 2009 Christmas Gear List
22 Oct 2009 | 5:00 amI know these are tough economic times with unemployment is nearing 10%, Wall Street bonuses less than $5 million (each) this Christmas and well, Santa, you know all this already. But I need, yes need, more climbing gear. I knew you would understand with all those chimneys out there ... read more -
No Fall 2009 Summits on Everest
14 Oct 2009 | 5:00 amFall is a difficult time to climb Everest. This year there were only two teams one on each side. Both gave it their all and both have now left the mountain without a summit attempt. Heavy snowfall and high winds were the primary issues ... read more -
The Other Himalaya Climbs
7 Oct 2009 | 5:00 amWhen people think of climbing in the Himalaya, almost everyone thinks of Mt. Everest. But the post-monsoon period of Fall is difficult on Everest with higher winds, more snow plus ever-shorter and colder days so many commercial companies turn to the lower and slightly logistically easier Cho Oyu, Manaslu and Shishapangma as their primary Fall 8000m expeditions ... read more -
Andrew Lock - 18th person to summit all 14 8000m
4 Oct 2009 | 5:00 amAustralian, Andrew Lock, along with his climbing partner Neil Ward, reported today they have topped out on the true summit of the worlds 14th highest mountain, Shishapangma in Tibet. This now puts Andrew in the exclusive club of only 18 climbers to have climbed the 14th highest mountains all above 8,000 meters. He did all 14 without supplemental oxygen. He started in 1991 with Everest his first 8000m attempt. ... read more -
SPOT GPS Messenger review
4 Oct 2009 | 5:00 amKeeping up with friends and family on a far-away mountain expedition has always been challenging. Some teams post dispatches every few days to their website, other climbers just use sat phones to callin. Now a new trend has emerged using a satellite transmitter to "beam" your ... read more

